Modern Australian fire cooking with clarity, confidence and soul

In the creative heart of Marrickville, 20 Chapel has quickly established itself as one of Sydney’s most compelling newer dining destinations - a restaurant that gives modern Australian fire cooking a clear and confident voice. Under the direction of Corey Costelloe, it presents a style that feels both grounded and refined, where flame is not simply a method of preparation, but a central force shaping flavour, texture and the wider emotional rhythm of the meal.

At the heart of the restaurant lies a philosophy built on honesty, restraint and respect for produce. Nothing feels overworked or overstated. Instead, the kitchen allows ingredients to speak with clarity, using fire with discipline and purpose to deepen character without obscuring origin. That confidence in simplicity gives 20 Chapel much of its appeal, and places it firmly within a contemporary Australian dining language that values directness over display.

Costelloe’s background in fine dining is evident, but it is carried with ease rather than formality. At 20 Chapel, technical understanding merges naturally with the more relaxed energy of Sydney’s inner west, creating a restaurant that feels authentic, confident and grounded in a kind of sober self-assurance. It is an attitude that does not reveal itself only on the plate or in the room, but runs through the entire concept - in the cooking, the service and the way the restaurant presents itself without unnecessary noise.

The restaurant’s meat programme reflects that same approach. Working with Australian beef and relying mainly on dry-ageing, the kitchen builds flavour through careful maturation before bringing each cut to the open fire grill. The presence of its own ageing room underlines how seriously the restaurant approaches this process, giving the team full control over the development of texture, depth and character. Provenance remains central, and the handling of the meat suggests a kitchen more interested in integrity than excess. Fire is used not for theatre, but for precision - to build depth, preserve succulence and allow the natural quality of the beef to emerge with quiet authority.

The room mirrors this same balance and restraint. Raw materials, restrained tones and the building’s industrial bones create a setting that feels tactile and grounded while contemporary finishes bring a certain warmth and subtle sophistication.

Service follows the same line - professional but approachable, sincere rather than performative. The team brings genuine enthusiasm and a sense of ease that suits the restaurant well, reinforcing the feeling that hospitality here is built on authenticity rather than choreography.

20 Chapel deserves its place in the ranking for offering a convincing expression of modern Australian fire-led dining - one where craftsmanship, local produce and unpretentious confidence come together with clarity and style. It may sit a little removed from the centre of things, but for anyone who truly appreciates excellent meat, the journey to Marrickville is more than worthwhile. Under Corey Costelloe, it is a restaurant that captures the beauty of simplicity and the enduring power of cooking over flame.