Fire, restraint and a distinctly London rhythm

In Shoreditch, BRAT has become one of the clearest examples of what wood-fired cooking looks like when it is handled with discipline rather than theatre. Set on the first floor of a converted industrial building on Redchurch Street, the restaurant carries the area’s raw energy without leaning on it for effect. Under Tomos Parry, BRAT is built around a simple principle: the more restrained the cooking, the more precise it has to be.

The room sets the tone. It is warm and practical, with timber, natural light and an open kitchen that keeps the work visible. The atmosphere is part of the restaurant’s identity, but not because it is designed to impress. It works because it feels lived-in, busy and calm at the same time, allowing the focus to stay on the cooking.

Parry’s approach draws on Welsh instinct and Basque influence, but it does not read as an imitation of either. The grill is used with clarity, and the cooking is defined by decisions that are basic in principle but difficult in execution: the right wood, the right heat, the right timing. This is where BRAT’s confidence sits. It does not rely on complexity. It relies on judgement.

The menu stays close to that idea, and the ingredients on it are defined by uncompromising quality and provenance. Alongside the restaurant’s great steak cuts like UK Hereford sirloin or Angus rib, particularly noteworthy are signature meat dishes such as Moorland beef tartare and the Cull Yaw mutton chop, which show the same disciplined approach and clarity of flavour without unnecessary embellishment.

Service and wine follow the same rhythm. The tone is relaxed and knowledgeable, with guidance offered naturally and without performance.The wine list is one of the most exciting in London, with well-chosen positions from Austria, Germany, Spain and France among others - focused, characterful and selected to sit comfortably alongside wood-fired cooking rather than compete with it.

BRAT is also one of our favourites for the overall experience - atmosphere, food, wine and the wider vibe - certainly in London. By 2026, it has moved well beyond early acclaim and become a restaurant with real authority in the city. It earns its place through consistency, focus and a clear understanding that fire-led cooking is at its best when it is handled quietly and precisely.