Fire, craft and the new British table

In the heart of Soho, along Denman Street, The Devonshire has quickly established itself as one of London’s most compelling dining destinations - a place where British character, serious produce and fire-led cooking come together with remarkable confidence. It captures something increasingly rare in the capital: a restaurant that feels deeply rooted in tradition while speaking in a distinctly contemporary voice. More than that, it is a true coup de coeur - one of those places whose spirit, clarity and sense of identity leave an immediate and lasting impression.

At the creative helm is Ashley Palmer-Watts, one of Britain’s most respected chefs, whose work helped shape a defining chapter in modern British gastronomy. At The Devonshire, his influence is unmistakable - rigorous, intelligent and quietly assured. Together with Jamie Guy, he has helped create a restaurant that honours the British steak tradition while bringing to it a level of technical care and ingredient integrity rarely found in such an apparently relaxed setting.

At the centre of the restaurant lies a serious commitment to beef, provenance and fire. Working with meat from the United Kingdom and Europe and guided by close relationships with producers, The Devonshire treats sourcing as the foundation of its identity. In-house butchery and dry-ageing play a central role, allowing each cut to be handled, matured and prepared with precision before it reaches the grill. This attention to process gives the restaurant real authority, ensuring that the quality of the raw product is matched by the discipline of its preparation.

Fire is the defining element of the kitchen’s expression. On the open fire grill, beef is cooked over glowing embers in a way that feels elemental, direct and exacting. This is not fire used for effect, but for character - to build depth, texture and a natural savouriness that speaks of both product and craft. There is a primal simplicity to the method, but also real technical control. The result is cooking that feels honest, confident and deeply satisfying.

The atmosphere is equally well judged. The Devonshire moves effortlessly between two worlds - the lively charm of a great London pub and the more composed intimacy of an upstairs dining room. Wood panelling, crisp linen and soft light lend the restaurant warmth and ease, while the hum downstairs ensures that the whole house remains full of life. It is British at heart, but cosmopolitan in instinct - polished without ever losing its sense of familiarity.

Service follows that same line. The team is attentive yet relaxed, polished yet grounded, creating an experience that feels hospitable in the truest sense rather than formally choreographed. There is confidence here, but no stiffness - just a natural understanding of how to make guests feel both comfortable and well looked after.

Under Ashley Palmer-Watts and Jamie Guy, it shows how authenticity, craft and atmosphere can come together in a way that feels entirely of its moment, yet built to last.